Malaysia Marvels II: Petronas Twin Towers

Petronas twin towers are the most recognizable feature of Kuala Lumpur and Malaysia. Anyone with a camera cannot but be mesmerized by the twins standing tall majestically. So was I, and I realized that with Petronas towers in sight, there is nothing else that catches your eyes. You keep looking at them and keep thinking of one more angle to click them. I came home only to realize that no picture can actually do justice to the marvelous structures as no camera can be as good as your eyes. But let me share my rendezvous with these towers through my 6-day stay in Malaysia.

I landed in KL early morning, sleep deprived after an overnight flight. Taxi driver told me that the hotel is at least an hour away from the airport, so as soon as I sat in the cab, I dozed off. When I opened my eyes Petronas towers were right in front of me, almost center aligned in the frame through the car window. But, wait a minute they did not appear as tall as I had imagined them. More importantly they did not stand-alone as I had imagined from the pictures I had seen in promotions. They were surrounded by a lot of other tall buildings that from a distance look almost as tall. I asked the Taxi driver, if these were indeed the Petronas towers and he confirmed they were. So, I kept looking at them as we almost circled around them to reach the hotel.

As luck would have it, my first day in KL was a full moon day, and it was fun to see the moon flirting with the towers, and creating different scenes as it moved in sky and I moved around the city. I tried my best to capture them through the glass window in the hotel, but managed only limited success. Next day, as we went close to the towers to attend the Bloggers Awards Night, I saw the reflection of one tower in another glass building and I think it looked beautiful in that hazed reflection. I saw them from the KL tower or Meenar KL viewing deck and got a side view from top through the glass windows. On my final day in KL, I went to the towers, though did not go up the deck, and roamed around the Suria KLCC Mall, its amazing bookstore and some of the galleries that it hosts. I finally got to see the towers up close. This is when they looked really powerful and taller than anything around them. I saw people trying to do all kinds of things to get them in the camera frame, to strike those funny touristy poses with it and just looking at them in awe.

I saw some exhibits explaining the building of the structures, but no one gives better information than our beloved Internet. It is well known that the towers have been built on the Islamic concept of octagonal star that is made by placing intersecting squares on each other. Here is a site that explains the structure in detail and also the process of how it was built. Interestingly, making of these ‘once the tallest buildings in the world’ was a truly global effort that involved designers and construction companies from across the world. I was also amazed to know that towers actually sway a little bit when the wind blows. Has anyone seen or felt them sway?

While anyone who has seen them appreciates them, my thoughts go to the person who conceived it in his or her minds first and all those who worked together to make it a reality. If all of us could work towards creating miracles together, world would be a much better place to live and we would have many more wonders to keep our eyes wide open. 

Hyderabad Hues XIX: Qutub Shahi Tombs

Qutub Shahi tombs along with Golconda fort are the epitome of architectural heritage of Deccan and Hyderabad. Though it is known as a complex with tombs of the seven Qutub Shahi kings, the complex has many more tombs from the royal family, making it a family burial place. Located just outside the Golconda fort, the tombs can be seen from the top of the fort, and it is possible that it was meant to be able to look at your ancestors and also the place where you may finally rest.

General architecture plan of these tombs include a raised square base, an arched corridor running around the main building, single or double storey main building with the tomb and a huge bulbous dome built on a cylinder. A Chhaja or a small-latticed wall all around the cylinder not only covers it but also gives an ornamental look to the dome as if it is wearing a necklace. Only one tomb stands like a Minar and has no surrounding corridor. Some domes of smaller tombs are different and look experimental. All the buildings are perfectly symmetrical, a distinct feature of Islamic architecture. Only in one tomb, instead of arches there is beam and lintel structure. Actual grave lies underground below the ornate grave in the main hall. The internal ceiling of the dome is painted with the motifs of the time. Sometimes a small open window brings in the light and lightens up the usually dark tomb insides and makes you see some truths of life and death.

There is one tomb just outside the complex gate that is unfinished and to me this was the most beautiful tomb – bare, minimalistic and giving an insight into how tombs were built. A huge bath meant to bath the dead bodies before laying them to rest. This is a curiously designed structure and I wish someone could explain me how it was used. There is a fairly large baoli or step well that must have meant for providing water to the area. There is a small on-site museum in the complex that is very basic and houses items found from excavations in the complex. There are water channels and gardens between various tombs. Last month when I was there, it was the beginning of the flowering of Gulmohar and the complex was dotted with bright orange trees providing a perfect background or foreground for the grey brown structures.

Today this complex is being pitched for the status of world heritage sight. I think that would require a lot more work in terms of maintenance and documentation of its heritage value. It really needs world-class maintenance. I could see that some restoration work has been done, but some more may be required. The step well is in bad condition, not only the structure looks crumbling but also the filth makes it very unattractive. The bath looks interesting but there is no explanation. There were no guides or brochures available for the visitor to know about the place. Only a board at the entrance provides the sketches of the structures.

What I liked about Qutub Shahi tomb complex is that it is a living place, though meant for the dead. There were large family and friends groups who were here for picnic. People were sitting on the floor on a sheet they brought with them under a tree or in a corridor. Children were playing in the ground and in the corridors. Complex has limited facilities for food and water, but that did not bother these families, as they were carrying their own food. It felt as if they were here to breathe the fresh air, out of their claustrophobic surroundings. Heritage makes more sense to me when it is living heritage for the people whom it really belongs to rather than when it is isolated for the tourists. 

If you live in Hyderabad and have yet not seen the tombs, please visit them, they are right in the city, cannot be too far from wherever you live. 

Malaysia Marvels I: MITBCA 2012, KL, Malaysia

This was my first visit to Malaysia and the first international speaking engagement. This year seems to be speaking year for me, have been getting invites to speak regularly. I was thrilled and excited about this trip for more than one reason. Since the primary reason for going was the Malaysia International Travel Bloggers Conference & Awards (MITBCA), let me speak about the impressions from the event first:

1.     Tourism Malaysia takes the digital social media very seriously, as they had spent ample effort and resources to make this event a success. Speakers were invited from around the world and around the country. Participation was not only free but also came with a goody bag and free food in a luxury hotel. No wonder, there were 500 or so people who sat through two days of the conference.

2.     Tourism minister YB Dato' Dr Ng Yen Yen showed her seriousness to tap social media to promote tourism by not only speaking at the inaugural address but also by spending time with the local and invited bloggers to take ideas and feedback. I love people who interact to learn rather than preach, especially when they are up there in the hierarchy and can get away with it. Her participatory approach is commendable, and so is the participation of all the senior officials from her ministry. Her enthusiasm was infectious and her colleagues agreed. She leads by example by having her own website, her own blog, her FB page and a twitter handle.  On a lighter note, it was a pleasure to see her doing chicken dance on stage with everyone else. How many times we see ministers so enthusiastic and participative?

3.     Local bloggers were awarded for their blogs in 16 different categories – all of them under one super category of ‘Travel and Tourism’. There were innovative categories like Tourism fashion blog and come to think of it, tourism and fashion may not be too far from each other, both are aspirational for most people. Award winners came equally from both genders and few of them came with their kids to receive the award. The process of award winning also utilized the social media to get the public polling for the awards. I think this is a good way to encourage more and more people to write about their country while acknowledging and recognizing those who are already doing it.

4.     Tourism Malaysia showcased their best venues by hosting the conference, awards night and high tea for speakers in different venues. They also took us for a night tour to their new capital Putra Jaya, designed from scratch for the government offices and government officials. This was followed by a trip to Melaka – one of their two world heritage cities, and I could not have asked for more. By doing this they very effectively utilized our time to both share our knowledge at the event and gather some travel stories to write about.

5.     I liked the fact that they have two different campaigns and brandings for projecting Malaysia to foreigners and to their own citizens. For others it is Truly Asia Malaysia campaign that we often see in our countries and for Malaysia they have Chuti Chuti Malaysia. The word Chuti means the same as Chhuti in Hindi meaning holiday or vacation.

6.     As much as I enjoyed speaking at the event, I was thankful for the all learning that other speakersgave me, almost on a platter. I learnt that it is not enough to have good content, you need to market yourself well too. My instinct though says that I want to have those followers who really connect with me and my content, and I am not comfortable being a part of the number game. The repeated message was that you have to be a part of the number game if you want blogging to be your profession, so the choice is really between passion and profession.

7.     Participants came from all walks of travel and tour trade – there were existing bloggers and there was wannabe bloggers, there were hotel owners, there were cable car operators, there were couchsurfing ambassadors, there were ex servicemen wanting to start their blogs, there were people who did not even have an e-mail Id but still wanted to understand social media, there were travel and tour company owners, there were people travelling through Malaysia, there were social media experts and of course there were all the officials of Malaysia tourism to participate, contribute and learn.

8.     All the new bloggers were worried about how to make money from blogging, sometimes even without having a blog, while all the old timers felt you should blog for the love of blogging and rest will follow. My 2 cents on this is that you need to make equal amount of effort to earn money in any profession, so if you want your blog to send you money – work hard at it, have unique content and be willing to be patient.

9.     My favorite part was interacting with people who had questions for me. End of the day, during break conversations gave a perspective of lot of new bloggers who want to make it big with blogging and took me back to days when I was a newbie.

10.   Blogger Lash, a participant in the conference gave me two of her books on Bali – one on cycling around Bali and another on Hiking around Bali. Thank you Lash. I will sure use them as and when I visit Bali.

Chhabeela Chhattisgarh VI: Economy of Mahua

I had often heard of Mahua flower in stories, in songs and in folklore, but never had a chance to see the flower itself. And then I find myself in Chhattisgarh, right in the middle of the Mahua season, with every morning waking up to Mahua flowers scattered around with people, specially women and little girls picking them up in their baskets, with courtyards of houses full of Mahua flowers laid out in sun for drying and hearing the nuggets about the flower. 

Mahua season lasts for 2-3 months, when the tall tress shed them during the wee hours. The pale yellow flowers lie face down on the ground making a yellow sheet on the ground, and in a jungle they lie on the dried leaves creating a nice pattern on them. Men, women and children come out of their homes and start filling their baskets with the flowers. They take a lunch break and empty their baskets and then come back for a second round of picking. You can see people walking on the road with baskets full of flowers, with small girls carrying small baskets. At night they burn the dry leaves around Mahua flowers so that next morning the flowers can be picked up easily over the dark ash and no flowers are lost amongst the leaves. At night we saw several fires lit around the trees creating a haunting scene in the pitch dark. Mahua tree is considered sacred by the tribals, as almost all parts of it are useful for the humans. The bark has medicinal value, seeds make a good fertilizer and oil can be used as fuel oil. 

In a day and adult can pick up to 5-6 kgs of flowers that get reduced to half after drying. It is then sold in the market and fetches around Rs 30-40 per kg. Mahua flower is also used in home recipes both as an ingredient and as an herb. As an ingredient it is added to the dishes for flavoring, so instead of boiled rice you may get Mahua flavored boiled rice. It is used to make pickles. It is fed to the cattle. As an herb it is given to lactating mothers both human and cattle as it is said to help the body produce more milk. 

The most important product from the flower though is of course the country liquor made out of it. After all it is the same flower that can make even the elephants go ‘Mast’. For local tribes this is a part of their culture, a celebration cannot be complete without the Mahua drink. Usually Gur is mixed with dried Mahua flowers to make the drink. Now I know the name Mahua always has a haunting intoxication associated with it.

Chhabeela Chhattisgarh V: Purkhauti Muktangan

Wide, broad, lamppost lined roads of New Raipur leads to this 200-acre culture and heritage park called Purkauti Muktangan. I fell in love with the name as soon as I heard it. It is difficult to translate it in essence but roughly it would mean an open (with a tinge of freedom) courtyard for the ancestral heritage, also referred as open museum. As you approach it through empty roads and spaces, you can see the huge wrought iron gates of this cultural village. Boundary walls painted with folk stories will catch you eye. The fact that it is an open space instead of being a closed display makes it inviting to say the least.

We entered the place through one of those story-telling gates to be greeted by the large figures showcasing the lives of Chhattisgarhi people. Boundary walls all around are painted in rich colors and tribal patterns. All tribes are depicted as dioramas showing their typical dances in their traditional attires. There are masks depicting various faces, a park depicting the wood carving art with full tree trunks being carved right there. Even the water tank is painted with murals to match the surroundings and not stand out and disturb the ambience. A section of park depicts the tribal jewellery with walls pasted with huge earrings, bangles dotting the green grass, and I found this the most innovative part of the park – tribal jewellery as theme for a park. 

A national award-winning artist Smt Sona Bai Rajawar has been engaged to create the wall murals and show the typical house in a Chhattisgarhi village. Each doorjamb is decorated with vibrant colors and patterns. Each window pan depicts a clay model of local birds and animals and sometimes the characters from folk tales. There are life size models of villagers doing their daily chores. This place is still being completed, but was still a delight to walk through an ambience that you so much connect with the essence of India, art as part of life and not for the sake of it. Key archeological sites and masterpieces have been re-created through life size models in the park like the temple of Bharamdeo and the sculpture of Rudra Shiva from Tala. The idea I was told is to present the flavor of Chhattisgarh to the visitor of the park, who may not visit these remote places otherwise. There are models of freedom fighters from the state. It was delight to know that all the work for the park, specially all the art installations have been done by the local artists. This is a very commendable step, as this place becomes a showcase for the local artists and may lead many opportunities to them, besides preserving the local art forms. Artist Piloo Ram Sahu is one of the key persons behind the large statues and sculptures in the museum.

There is a dire need of planting some trees in the campus, to beat the heat, and to give a natural feel also to the place. As of now it is a work in progress place, and may remain so for some more time to come, but it is still worth visiting and the added advantage is that you can see the artists at work here. There are areas marked for visiting artists where they can stay and work. There is an emporium and a tourist information center located in the campus, though the visitors are still to hit this place in big umbers. If you study the work displayed here, you would need more than a day to understand, to read all the stories- carved, modeled and painted. To even take a simple walk across the sprawling campus you need at least couple of hours.

Travel Stories III: At the Border

This was March of 2007, and I was returning back to India after spending one week in Bhutan in a taxi that was supposed to take me to Siliguri. Since this was going to be a long drive, I started early morning from Thimpu in a hope to reach Siliguri before it is dark. Around 10:30 AM or so we reached Phunshillong, border town between India and Bhutan. At the border we were told that we couldnot cross the border, as there is Bandh in Bengal, I think this was a part of the Nandigram agitation. I tried everyone possible of the limited options available there but I was told that Orders from Delhi say no vehicle can cross the border. They said you are welcome to go across on foot or come back, but the vehicle will not cross. When I asked what time do we expect this crossing ban to be lifted, I was told ‘We do not know. We will know only when the orders come’, when I kept asking they said ‘Madam, not before 5 in the evening’. 

I crossed to see if there was a vehicle available on the India side that I can take to reach any closest city, but West Bengal was absolutely closed and no transport of any kind was available. Soon vehicles started piling up on both sides, ensuring that as and when the border opened, there is bound to be a traffic jam. I was travelling alone and knew only the driver who had accompanied me for the last few days. After all possible talking and walking, I accepted that I have to wait till the border opens. It is then that I started looking around the place to see what can I do for the next 6-7 hours. I pulled out a book from my luggage, the book was too heavy and sun too bright so the book went back to the bag. I had some tea and snacks from the food stalls that were celebrating the bandh for the bumper business it was giving them. As I was sipping my tea, I saw the poster of Hindi movie ‘Honeymoon Travels Pvt Ltd’. 

Asked around for the theatre that was playing the movie, and figured out it was a bit on the Bhutanese side in the town, so asked the driver to take me there. Person at the ticket window wondered why am I taking a ticket for a show that was almost approaching interval. I did not explain, just smiled and entered the hall. It was as basic a hall as possible, with wooden benches in front and some basic seating at the back. As I entered the hall, I could see most eyes looking at me till I settled down in a seat and within 5 minutes it said ‘Interval’. I was happy I was sitting in a shaded area, have three hours worth of movie to watch, yes, I had already decided to watch the next show as well to see the first half that I missed. 

After finishing the movie when I came out, I was hungry – so looked around for food, found it, had it and by then sun started coming down and people started coming out on the streets. Sat down and chatted with a few people and obviously asked them how is their life impacted by these bands. As expected they had accepted it as a way of life, they do not plan their lives so tightly that a day or two of delay messes up everything for them. They would prefer not to have these delays, but do they complain against them – No. 

Border opened at 6 in the evening and we started driving towards Siliguri and we had a national park to cross in between, Drivers stories of wild animals did not really help my anxiety, but like they say ’all is well that ends well’, I reached Siliguri in the middle of the night safely in my hotel. 

This episode made me think, should I be planning schedules in my life so tightly that any one thing falling out of place can lead to chaos. I did quit formal employment about 6 months after this incident, though I think I still continue to plan and pack my days too tightly. On a lighter note, my driver was happy that I went and saw the movie instead of cribbing the whole day about Bandh.