Magical Mumbai VI: Cathedral of the Holy Name, Colaba, Mumbai

Not too far from the Afghan Church in Colaba is century old Roman Catholic Cathedral of the Holy Name. From the outside it looks like any other building in the neighborhood with typical Gothic architecture built by the British. The narrow roads and thankfully some trees do not allow the full view of the building from the vicinity but you can see the elegant building in grey stones outlined in white. If you let your neck move around you may be able to see it’s imposing spires.

This cathedral has seen quite a bit of history as it was built here to replace a church that used to exist elsewhere, while replacing an Old Portuguese church that once stood very close to this place. Formally it was a church built in the first few years of the 20th century and completed in 1905. It rose to be a cathedral in 1964 and was declared a heritage building in 1998. It is the seat of Archbishop of Bombay.

Most beautiful feature of this Cathedral is the frescos or the paintings on the ceilings and the walls. Architecturally it has a narrow tall hall with vaulted ceilings and an impressive altar with three colorful strained glass windows with a chandelier hanging in the front. Ceilings in rich yellow color depict the scenes from the Christ’s life. The white lines criss-crossing across the ceiling provide the outlines and create the sections while providing a pattern. Arches below have the frescos on a pale green background while the empty spaces are filled in yellow and pink with geometric designs. The whole play of bright yet pleasant colors is what makes this place vibrant and charming. There are idols on the walls that add to the beauty.

A white stole with golden embroidery, a gift from Pope John XXIII to the Cathedral is prominently displayed. When I visited there were few women sitting and chatting inside the church while others were silently praying. It is always a humbling experience to go around buildings that have been around for a long time and still stand tall, and in places where prayers are said everyday, irrespective of who says them and to whom.

Magical Mumbai V: Afghan Church, Colaba

On my way back from Deccan Odyssey, I had a day to myself in Mumbai and blessed that I am, was fondly invited by our family friends to come over and spend the day with them at Colaba. I had never been to anyone’s house in Colaba that I am told is the best place to live in Mumbai, and I must say it cannot be more true. You are at the tip of the city, see beautiful views of the city’s skyline against the ocean, see the ships passing by from your balcony, have almost no pollution and the town is just a small walk able distance away.

On my way to Colaba, I saw this handsome church called Afghan Church. The narrow tall structure was definitely 19th CE and hence inviting, so after soaking in the fresh air at Colaba sea face I went to see this church and since it was not a Sunday I expected it to be closed. I had already noticed its exceptionally high spiral that I was later to discover was a condition to allow the building of this church, the spiral was supposed to be an indication for the sailors heading this way. The next thing that caught my eye was the massive recessed arch doorway that looked majestic even though not in the best of the state. I looked around and read a notice on the board that told me that the foundation of this church was laid in 1847 and it was completed in 1858 while the spire was completed in 1865 and it was only in 1995 that the building was declared a heritage building. A man sitting there was quietly observing us and when we asked him if it is possible to go inside the church and see it, without saying anything he got up and opened the door for us. 

It is a beautiful church from inside as well, built in the typical Gothic style. High vaulted ceilings, with stained glass windows on the walls and at the altar give away the timeline and patrons of the church. Since we were the only ones, it felt a bit surreal, but it gave me ample time and space to absorb the building. A marble plaque in a wall tells that the church was built in the memory of innumerable soldiers who lost their lives in the battle of Sind and Afghan in 1838-43 and hence the church is popularly known as Afghan Church though the official name is The church of St John the Evangelist. 

By this time our man carried a not so happy impression on his face and I asked what happened and he said why did you come inside with your shoes on. I said, I never thought that you cannot take shoes inside the church, neither is there a notice saying ‘No Shoes’, but if this was the case, you should have told me. He said it does not matter weather shoes are allowed or not. Question is do you go to your temple with shoes, to which I said No. He said, “If you do not go to your God’s home with shoes, do you think you should go to other’s God’s home with shoes on?” He had a point and he had me thinking. Should you treat God the way that God’s religion demands or should you treat each God like the one you believe in? 

I clicked some pictures, was happy to have seen another heritage structure and came out smiling to see another church in the same area, still pushing back my neck to see the tip of the spire.

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