Chandigarh Chimes II – Le Corbusier Centre

Chandigarh is the only city in India that had been built ab initio, as a modern capital city combining the vision of India’s first prime minister and the genius of French architect Le Corbusier. It is modeled on the human body with government buildings in place of head, a market in place of heart, green gardens in place of lungs and industrial areas as limbs with roads criss-crossing like arteries and veins. It is a city where every road goes straight and the only angles you can turn at is 90 degrees or a multiple of it. City is divided into rectangular sectors that in turn are divided into 4 equal parts, and each of the sectors is self sufficient with its own market and school. Come to think of it, it may represent a congregation of independent units co-existing in perfect harmony.

Building that Le Corbusier used as his office has now been converted into a heritage center dedicated to him and his creation – Chandigarh. I was told that a few years back Chandigarh administration went on a hunt to collect all possible heritage documents and furniture for this center. The center is now the nerve center for the heritage of the city and its designer. It documents his life and time and in the process the process of creation of the city. Incientally a painting here depicts how the city actually resembles the ancient Indus Valley Civilization cities that also had a grid based design. The excavations from the time of building of the city have confirmed that this area was very much a part of Indus Valley Civilization. So in a way while Le Corbusier designed a very modern city, he was also emulating the ancient city that might have existed here on this very land. Some of the excavated artifacts from the city can be seen at the city museum.

It is a typical Chandigarh building in grey color. The walls of the corridor now adorn the pictures of Le Corbusier along with his quotes on architecture somewhere telling you what he was thinking when he was designing the city. His conference room where he met Nehru has been preserved as such. It has the same wood and leather chairs that he used with a large wooden table in the centre. Walls now have paintings and sketches of the city – both new and old adorning the walls. A nawar cot and wooden desks used by the architect are also a part of this room along with a huge master plan of the city.

When I saw the wooden chairs there, I was reminded of my chair in the hostel in Panjab University and the tourism officer accompanying me confimed that the furniture has been procured from there. Then I saw a chair from Physics department, probably a chair I sat on sometime and never realized it is going to be a part of the city heritage. Later when I took a quick round of the University library, I realized that all wooden chairs their had been replaced by the ghastly plastic chairs and I had mixed emotions  - one part felt happy that I used the heritage furniture, the other feeling sorry for the current furniture.

In pictures across the center, you see Corbusier in many moods, engrossed in work, posing with his models, taking a ride in the lake and meeting the dignitaries. I was not aware that the city’s manhole covers carry a map of the city – and this was a new learning for me. The same map can be seen at many places in the center including its sovenir shop. You need a lot of time to read through the various letters displayed here and more than what the letters said, I was intrigued by the handwritings of these men who defined their times. A collection of cartoons about Chandigarh and its architecture make an amusing reading. Architectural designs and depictions of the extended hand in various forms indicate the passion and pride the people of the city have for it. As someone who grew up in Chandigarh, I know each person is proud of this city that has many uniqe features, but on top being the cleanest and greenest city of India.

Incidentally, it seems more French visitors visit this center than Indians or even people from the city. I think a guide who can talk about the history, heritage and architecture of the city and its architect would make a difference to the visitor experience. I have not seen anything like this in any other city in India that documents its history so well.  Ok- I am biased.

Royal Rajasthan XIV: Bada Bagh, Jaisalmer

Bada bagh literally means large garden and to think of a garden in the middle of Desert is amusing to say the least. This is not really a garden but a place of royal canotaphs, built in the memory of Kings and Queens who rules this land. From a distance you see some domes jetting out of sand, dwarfed by the huge windmills all around them. As you go closer, you get a glimpse of the typical Rajasthani architecture with its round tapeting pillars and ornate arches.

There are clusters of Cenotaphs all in similar style - Open pavilions with pillars. When you stand in the arch of one and look at the others, you feel as if the family members may still be looking and talking to each other from their personal rooms. The windmills appeared as if they are providing the much needed air to those living here.

A whitel marble plaque inside the cenoptaph, below the dome tells about whom it belongs to and most of them are shown riding on the horse. There are plates outside, may be put by tourism department to tell which one belongs to whom. The latest one dated sometime in early 20^th CE is incomplete and the tradition was stopped after independence. We noticed a water pitcher in front of this cenotaph – that is usually put in front of the last person to come here and is meant to quench thirst for the soul.

The cluster on top of the hill has cenotaphs with tiered pyramidal roofs but I could not figure out if this indicates something or was just an architectural variation.

There was a garden built here next to a dam and that is how this place got the name, but I could not see any garden, the windmills did look like as if they are sprouting out of a garden.

There was a surreal feeling at this place, even though it was crowded with tourists.