Andhra Adventures X: INS Kursura Submarine Museum

INS Kursura, the out of service submarine that fought in the war of 1971, stands elegantly like a giant whale in black on the famous RK beach of Visakhapatnam. From a height it appears like a fish out of water. It is now one of its kind museum in Asia, and only second in the world where you can go inside the submarine and for sometime feel the lives of those who live in them under the water as they work towards securing our lives on land. It was built by the Russians and first came to Visakhapatnam in 1970. After being in service for 31 years it was decommissioned and now it is serving the tourism industry, while educating the general public about how the submarines work, look like and more importantly how naval personnel live inside that cramped space beneath water.

This is one those rare museums in India that have ample documentation, maintained displays and a guided tour inside the submarine. Huge boards outside educate you on the basic principles on which submarines work, like how they are pushed down the sea, how they can remain there for up to 60 days and how they are pulled out. The mental and physical strength required to be a submariner can only be imagined, as they have to live with limited water inside the giant machine with no windows to even look out and cramped place shared by all on board. It also tells you about history of Indian submarines and the history and vital statistics of this particular ‘Foxtrot’ machine that you would see. There is also a pictorial depiction of the construction of this museum, how the ground was laid and how the submarine was stationed here. Around the museum are displayed various important components of the Submarine like a Torpedo, an Indicator buoy, huge batteries, oil cooler, valves, air coolers etc. A neat board explains the functions of each of these for the technically inclined.

You are taken inside the submarine in a group along with a guide who tells you in detail about the workings of the submarine. You get to see the actual Torpedoes and how they are fired. Inside, it appears you are inside a machine with some very small cabins for sleeping, toilets and kitchen for the crew. There are so many controls that you wonder how do they even remember what to use when and for what. Models display how these limited spaces were used. There is a board with the names of all the personnel who worked from this submarine, a proud display along with awards and diving gear. There is a very cute display of steaming Idlis in the kitchen and dining room that looks too formal for that small space. At the fag end is the escape route though a small ladder, in case there is no other way left.

The visit can leave you overwhelmed and you feel a lot of gratitude for the submariners. It is a beauty to admire in its well-maintained surroundings, by the sea. As the waves hit the shore they seem to be yearning to take this fish like creature inside with them.

If you are going to Vizag for any reason, you must take out time to visit INS Kursura.

Andhra Adventures IX: Etikoppaka Toys

This delicate Veena is made in wood with a shining Lacquer finish at Etikoppaka, a small village in coastal Andhra Pradesh, some 65 kms from Visakhapatnam. Located on banks of river Varaha, it has 200+ artisans who are engaged in making these hand made items from wood – toys, games, curios, containers, bangles. 

Etikoppaka Wood & Lacquer Ware is their technical name. Various forums like National Innovation Foundation, crafts council of India and UNESCO handicrafts have recognized these artists by awarding them. I was very happy to know that local corporate organizations like Novotel Vizag are supporting these artisans by using their products as corporate gifts. 

To me, the toys looked very similar to the ones that come from Channapatna in Karnataka, can someone tell me the difference please?

Unsung UP XI: Other Shore of Ganga, Varanasi

Ramnagar is a small town on the other bank of Ganga that is the bank opposite the famous moon shaped Ghats of Varanasi. It houses a fort that is the official residence of Kashi Naresh i.e. the King of Kashi. I had very fond memories of visiting this fort as a kid, riding on the boat from one of the ghats, crossing the Ganga while feeding the fishes and spending the day at Ramnagar. My most vivid memory of the museum in the fort is that of a Queen’s heavy lehanga that was supposed to weigh around 20Kgs or so and I secretly wished to try it one day. This time when I visited I knew that is not a possibility but I did want to see that lehanga with a more trained eye, but alas it was no longer a part of the display that is open to public.

Located just on banks of the Ganga, this 18^th CE fort is a representative of Mughal era with its Jalis and Chhajas. The entrance gate is not huge but still stands out in the humble surroundings of Lassi and Ganna Juice stalls that skirt the fort wall. The top part of the gate seems to be recently painted in multi-color. The rest of the palace inside is in yellow color with green windows and doors. One gateway inside the palace really exudes royalty; the rest of the palace seems like overgrown barracks of the early British era. The lawns can definitely be better maintained as can the displays at the museum. The vintage cars on display with Banaras state numbers are asking to be dusted, as are silver palkhis and grand ornaments of elephants. There is a generous display of arms that I usually tend to skip.

Biggest attraction of the Ramnagar Fort museum is the astrological clock that displays both lunar and solar calendar. Besides time, it displays position of sun and moon, dates according to both calendars, Zodiac sign and Navamsha. It ticks every second and strikes every hour, half hours and fifteen minutes. It is a huge clock that has been set according to the exact latitude, longitude and height of city from sea level. Being a mechanical clock it needs to be wound once every 8 days. We assumed that the clock would have been made somewhere in Europe, but we were delighted to know that it was made a man called Mulchand in 1872 CE in Varanasi and since then has only once been repaired by another man called Munnilal in 1923 CE. Think of the guarantees that come with products of 21^st CE. My biggest regret not being allowed to take a picture of the clock.

Ramnagar is also the venue for Varanasi's famous month long Ramlila that used to and in some way continues to happen under the patronage of Kashi Naresh. I was told that it is a participatory form of Ramlila, something I wish to see sometime in my life. The costumes and props used are displayed in Bharat Kala Bhavan museum. There is Ramlila museum as part of the palace but it was closed when we visited. Between the back wall of the fort and Ganga lie two small temples – both dedicated to Vyasa the ancient sage. The story of Vyasa goes like this: He was not treated well in Kashi or he took a vow to never enter Kashi and meditated at this shore of Ganga. The place came to be known as Vyasa Kashi and according to some beliefs Kashi Yatra is not complete without visiting the Vyasa temple, though the slim numbers at the temple hardly testify this legend. One of the temples has some paintings still left on its ceilings in green blue colors. You do get a hazy but panoramic view of the ghats of Kashi and the bridges across the river.

Ramnagar is also the town of Lal Bahadur Shastri, but that is a story for another post. There are no places to stay in Ramnagar so you will have to depend on Varanasi Hotels for that.

Andhra Adventures IX: Araku Valley Bamboo Chicken

Travel to a destination cannot be complete without the local food, and every place no matter how small or big has a local delicacy hidden its own cuisine. Most of the times ingredients remain the same but it’s the process that makes all the difference, so in Araku Valley tribal communities cook chicken inside the hollow of a bamboo without using any oil or water.

They take the small raw chicken pieces, marinate it with ginger heavy masala and stuff it inside the bamboo that is open from one side and close the open end by stuffing the Sal leaves, called Adda leaves locally.  This bamboo is now put on coal fire and turned a few times so that the heat spreads out evenly. Note that no oil or water is used in this cooking. It is only the heat passing through he burning bamboo that cooks the food inside. Once the bamboo is burnt black, it is an indication that chicken is done. Open the bamboo, remove the Sal leaves and the chicken is ready to be savored. Traditionally, It is served again on a Sal leave.

This is a trademark delicacy of the tribal communities of Araku valley and only they are allowed to cook using the Bamboo. It is not served in restaurants, though they will arrange to bring it for you from the local sellers. You will find small roadside stalls made of bamboo, managed mostly by women with green bamboos standing, masalas or spices scattered and a small coal chulha or stove at the back. I was told that during peak season people have to wait for hours before they can get the dish, such is the popularity that it enjoys. I could not figure out if the Government has put a restriction on others making the dish, but if they have, it is definitely a good move and is helping a lot of local population reap the benefits of the tourism economy.

My only grouse is that being a vegetarian I could not enjoy the bamboo cooking. I tried asking them if they can make anything vegetarian using the same method, but no one showed any enthusiasm at the suggestion. They only smiled and I tried to guess the taste from the faces of those who were eating.

Andhra Adventures VIII: Borra, the Cave with a Hole

Located in Eastern Ghats of India, in Ananthagiri Hills of Araku Valley, about 90 kms from the coastal city of Visakhapatnam, Borra Guhalu is one of its kind natural wonders of India. It is the biggest natural stalagmite and stalactite cave in the country. These caves are found in various parts of world and their ages are always stated in hundreds of millions of years, a number that you and I cannot even comprehend. I have seen similar caves in Texas, USA, Slovakia and in our own Meghalaya. They are very similar with natural growths from the ceiling and the floor, sometimes they come together to form pillar like formation, and otherwise the random formations can make your imagination run wild. These caves usually come in the path of a river and you can see the flow of water through them. Borra caves are the origin of Gowstani River that flows from here to Visakhapatnam. 

In India of course the caves are not as well maintained and because of human touch, most growths have stopped, and there is no restriction on touching. Having said that they are a part of the culture here and not just another scientific or archeological discovery. They are living caves in a sense as we have a way of finding divine everywhere, so the growths from the floor often get treated as Shivalingas, and other formations can resemble other incarnations of Gods, their vehicles, auspicious signs and sometimes even the legends from the historical texts. In Borra caves you can see many Shiva Lingas, one of them is converted into a small temple and can be approached by a steep narrow staircase only. Formations formed through the water falling are called Jalashilas or water rocks locally. There is Sai Baba, there are temples, there is Sita’s bedroom and bathroom, from where comes the yellow water that is supposed to be the Haldi or Turmeric water from her bath. Scientifically, it is just the Sulfur giving color to the water. There is a formation of a human brain, a corncob, monkeys, sitting elephant, running horse, Hanuman’s feet and his Gada or mace. At places the walls shines because of the presence of minerals like Magnesium and Silica. What is worth noting is a huge end-to-end joint in the rock, which is amazing and locals call two sides divided by the joints as Luv and Kusha, Sita’s two sons. Light falling out of the hole above illuminates the caves beautifully and in many ways depending on where you are standing in the cave. Human brain formation is also curious as it not like a traditional stalactite or stalagmite formation. Towards the end of the cave you can see the reflection of the cave in water, suddenly doubling the size of the cave with interesting illumination. 

Borra caves are spread across three levels and only the middle level is open for public. The level below and above is not so safe for general travelers. Bottom level also connects to the river below and hence can be dangerous. Do stop by to have a top view of the river that flows between white marble rocks that are common around the area. Our guide told us that the cave has a free entry on Shivaratri when all the tribal communities of the region come here to worship. At the entrance of the cave, opening is huge and you can see the expanse of the cave with people looking like tiny dwarfs. Two Nandis have been placed at the entrance giving the impression of whole cave being a Shiva temple and is he not actually known to be cave dweller! 

Borra means hole in local language. Cave has a hole right on top and that is how it gets its name. Legend is that a cow fell through this hole and that is how the local tribal population discovered the cave and the source of the river and named the river after the cow’s udder. At a point you can see an udder like formation with water dropping from it directly over a Shivalinga. Modern history traces the discovery of the caves to the British Era when King William George of Geological Survey of India discovered in some 200+ years ago. Anthropologists have discovered stone tools from the caves indicating that these caves were inhabited probably 30,000-50,000 years ago. 

If you travel by East Coast Railway’s train to Borra Guhalu, guide will tell you that just before hitting the station, the train track is actually going above the caves and sure inside the caves you can see a railway sign board telling you the same thing along with all the numbers. AP tourism has done a decent job of putting a paved path in the caves and some lamps that make it possible for the visitors to move around in the cave. 

I would put Borra caves in the list of must visit places, both for the caves and train journey that takes you there through many tunnels.

Andhra Adventures VII: Train ride to Araku Valley

A morning train takes you to Araku Valley from Visakhapatnam through a series of tunnels, with valley on one side and hillocks on the other. Everyone starts with an attempt to count the tunnels but soon loose count as they get lost in the the views and small stations that come on the way. Thankfully the tunnels are numbered and you can start again. There are 52 tunnels on the route, the longest being 896 meters and shortest being only 26 meters, and average length about 400 meters.

Keep an eye out for Tunnel No 10 where the train enters at a right curve and you can actually see the train entering the tunnel from the window. This East Coast rail link was built in 1958 by HCC through an Indo-Japan collaboration to transport the Iron Ore from the state of Chhattisgarh to the port at Vishakhapatnam. This train ride takes you from a height of 5.6 meters above mean level to a height of 996 meters at Shimliguda. Shimliguda station on this route is said to be the second highest rail station in India after Udhampur near Jammu. Just before Borra Guhalu station the train runs over the famous Borra caves and you would see a sign of it when you visit the caves.

APTDC runs a Rail cum Road package that takes you to Araku via train and brings you back by bus after covering major attractions. They even serve you breakfast and tea in the train while a guide gives you the tit bits on the train and the region. You have the option to come back the next day too...

Travelling Souls II : Lash The World Traveller

I met Lash last year at MITBCA in KL, Malaysia. She stood amongst thousands present there in the conference with her unique personality and eclectic style. I distinctly remember people asking here where she came from and she kept saying 'I am Nomadic' , that a lot of people took time to digest. She has been traveling for almost 2 decades now, and that is all she does. She has written two books on Bali, one on Hiking in Bali and another on Cycling around Bali besides writing a very successful travel blog, that not only talks about the good things that travel offers you but also the potential disasters that you may have to handle. I am happy to have her as the second traveler in this Travelling Souls series on my blog: 

Tell us about yourself, where were you born, where did you grow up, what did you study and if possible about your family.

I was born and raised in the US, more specifically in small towns of Ohio, Indiana, NJ and Pennsylvania states. My father started out as a college professor of religion and a minister at small town churches. He later grew disillusioned with the Christian religion, left that profession and became a carpenter. My mom was a nurse. Our family moved about every 5 years, mainly because of my dad's career changes.

My family made a lot of fun road trips, mostly visiting the great outdoors at national and state parks. We did a lot of camping, hiking, mountain climbing and exploring nature. By the time I was 11, I'd seen the Eastern half of the USA and experienced just about every kind of natural environment: ocean, beaches, lakes, rivers, mountains, forests and so on. I'm sure this is a significant factor in my love of travel and immersing myself in nature.

Meanwhile, I studied ballet growing up and wanted to become a professional dancer. I went as far as skipping my last year of senior high school to attend university for dance. After one year, I quit. Instead, I became a licensed hair designer, returned to university, and put myself through university by working in an upscale hair design studio. I got my university degree with a dual major in Computer Science and Philisophy.

By that time, I had already decided to move to Japan to teach English, specifically in order to save money to travel the world. About one year after graduation, I drove across the USA with my best friend and took a flight to Kyoto, Japan, where we lived for 6 years, exploring the amazing Japanese culture and saving money.

How did you gravitate towards a Nomadic lifestyle? Was it a sudden decision or a gradual adaptation that happened over a period of time? What is it about this lifestyle that keeps you going?

I love planning, organizing and scheduling. I spent 8 years preparing and saving for my big world trip while teaching English in Kyoto, Japan. (Two years in US then 6 years in Kyoto) By the time I began my world travels in 1998, I set out to travel for as long as possible, my whole life if I could.

Since I wanted to travel indefinitely, I never had any reason or desire to own a home. For what? I didn't want to 'be stuck' in one place. And I didn't want to be 'tied down' to home ownership, with its mortgage and perpetual upkeep and costs.

After I actually got out on the road traveling, I loved it so much that I just wanted to keep going. I love the freedom that I feel in NOT owning things or property.

I don't know why, in terms of my soul, I prefer being nomadic to stationary. In practical terms, whenever I stay in one place for more than 3-6 months, I start feeling restless, bored and 'stuck'.

I recently read a National Geographic article about this very subject. Scientific research apparently shows that certain people – 10-20% of humans - have a higher dose of one particular chemical /hormone that leads them to being risk-takers and explorers. There have always been explorers amongst humans. Perhaps it's this hormone responsible for those of us who prefer being nomadic?

 

I remember when I met you in Malaysia, most people expected you to at least have a base - even when you kept repeating - I am Nomadic. Tell us how do you think most people react to your being nomadic and what do you think of them.

Not surprisingly, if I'm speaking English, most local people who meet me automatically assume I'm just another westerner on a short vacation in their country. As such, they tend to treat me like I'm brand new to the place. I have to explain to them that I've been traveling for 14 years and am quite familiar with their country/ city/ culture.

If they inquire further about my travels and find out that I don't have a home or a base, but that I just wander around... The most common reaction I get is mild surprise and excitement. Most people seem to think that's very interesting, fun and adventurous. They get shiny eyes thinking of it.

Once in a while I meet people who say they would not like to live that way. They prefer to have a home. And a few times, I've met people who respond to the idea of perpetual travels as “irresponsible' and/or' running away”.

That's a very odd reaction to me. From my perspective, who WOULDN'T want to travel forever?! And 'irresponsible' about what? Aren't I just responsible for myself? I don’t' think I”m obligated to be married, to be a wife, to bring children into the world, to devote myself to a company or organization. I don't know what they're thinking?

What are the biggest advantages or high points of a Nomadic lifestyle and would you recommend it to others? What are the biggest challenges and what kind of people do you think should avoid this lifestyle?

Nomadic life is for people who value freedom over security. And for people who have a medium to high risk tolerance.

For me the highlight is freedom. Freedom to go where I want, when I want, for as long as I want. I choose the places I love and want to be in. Freedom from a 'rut' or 'rat race' life, from rules and regulations. Freedom from bills, taxes and things. MY only restrictions are visas (how long I'm allowed to stay in any given country) and money. I have to travel within those parameters, but that's about it for 'rules'. The biggest challenge, for me, has been earning enough money to continue indefinitely. But so far, so good. I'm still going. :)

Thousands of people say they want to travel the world. But most of them don't, of course. Either they're afraid or else they actually, deep inside, value other things in life over travel. Things like owning a home, raising a family, staying near family and friends. That's fine, too. Each person has to decide what's most important to them and then do that.

If they're afraid, then either they just haven't educated themselves about the things they're worried about or else they can't handle risk. If they need security, then they probably should stay home.

Though I have to add that long-term travel does NOT mean you have to give up those other things if you want them. Lots of couples travel together. Many people travel as a family with their children. Many travelers own homes and/or apartments that they rent out for passive income. You CAN do all, if you want.

The kind of people who should avoid this life-style already are already doing so! I don’t know anyone who started traveling the world and then decided they didn't like it or that they wanted to go back to their old life! Anyone who gets so far as to start already is the right kind of person and they will love it.

 

Magenta or bright pink seem to be your favorite color, and I heard you saying that you love colors. How do you relate to colors and how do they impact you as a person and personality? Is color one of the reason that you love South East Asia so much?

I love bold and strong everything. Bold colors, strong coffee, intense chocolate, bold people, adventurous people, energetic people. I don't do so well with subtle.

As for colors, bright colors energize me. They make me feel happy and alive. I often get a natural high, believe it or not, just by gazing at beautiful vibrant colors. On the other hand, neutral colors, pastels and other soft colors I find extremely boring and dull. They don't do anything for me.

I suppose bright colors must be one reason why I love SE Asia. But I think I can find bright colors everywhere in the world. A few years ago I spent the summer in England. I was surprised and delighted to discover that England is engulfed in bright, vibrant green foliage. I was happy. :)

I was reading your Travel Disaster section and though in retrospect the incidents sound amusing, but for your readers I think that makes a well-rounded impression of traveling while most travelers tend to glorify it all the time. Your comments.

Aside from my one disastrous WWOOFing experience, none of my 'travel disasters' are really disasters in the sense of a tragedy or fatal incident. But they do show some of the weird and crazy incidents that can happen out on the road that travelers have to deal with.

I actually think I also tend to glorify travel by usually writing about all the wonderful places and experiences I have. That's usually how I honestly feel about life and travel.

I do write honestly about my experiences. For example, there are a few places I just really disliked, including Cebu City and Boracay Island, Philippines and Cambodia. So I wrote about how much I disliked them and why. I got a lot of angry comments from Filippinos about my Philippine stories!

But I think it's important to write my true feelings and honest perspectives on places and experiences. It just happens that I'm generally a very positive person who likes just about everything and every place. ...So you can be sure that if I didn't like it, it was really horrible!

Would it be right to say that your primary travel style is Adventure? You are an accomplished Scuba Diving instructor, tell us some amusing tales from that experience.

Yes, I'd say I”m an adventure traveler. I love doing all sorts of activities in the great outdoors: hiking, cycling, scuba diving and any/all sky sports. I love heights!

I can't think of any amusing tales offhand, but you can read my day by day adventure tales from my 2-week cycling trip around Bali island. You could also read descriptions of several of my favorite dive sites in Bali and Malaysia.

Since when have you been writing your blog and how much time do you spend writing your blog say per week on an average. What is the most visited section of your extensive and well organized blog? You have authored two guide books on Bali - Hiking in Bali and Cycling in Bali. How do you compare the two mediums - digital and paper?

I created my original blog in late 2010, but I started working on it seriously in Feb. 2011, when I discovered it was a feasible career. I'm sure any travel blogger will tell you that the work and hours required are crazy insane. In 2012 I worked 6 days/week, usually 8-10 hours per day. On top of that there were 3 months that I worked even more. It's was insane. In fact, I literally damaged my back and my health by Dec. 2013 from way too much sitting, concentrating, stress and lack of exercise or fun. I'm now rehabilitating.

So this year, I've changed my life drastically. I now work only 4-5 hours per day, 6 days per week. If I don't get everything done, too bad. I stop anyhow. I exercise every day, have personal time for fun and relaxing, and make sure I travel if only to explore the neighborhood I'm in. Let's see how it goes!

On LashWorldTour, my most extensively read posts are my '10 Free Things to do in Series'. Singapore's Changi airport is no. 1 and KL no. 2   I get a lot of readers from search engines to that series. Those posts are relevant for many years and to many people. 

You have interacted with many world travellers on your blog. Did you see anything common between all of them and you? Does travel make them more open, receptive, accepting and accommodating? Do you think persistent travelers can eventually retire and live in one place and ignore the itch in their feet?

I've been interviewing other traveling bloggers on a weekly basis for nearly 2 years. After one full year of interviews, I published a post talking about just that: One Year Round-up of Travelers' Interviews.  Please check it out for the results.

AS to whether or not long-term travelers can actually settle down, I'm sure it varies from person to person. But I do know several traveling couples who already have settled down after 1-2 years of continuous travels. Traveling Canucks of Canada and Positive Travels of Australia are two examples. Of course they still go travel, but they basically have a 'settled' life' with a home and other jobs, perhaps children.

For others, like myself, it still remains to be seen. Personally, I plan to travel another 10-15 years to see the whole world and then finally settle down to a nice house on a beach with landscaped gardens, where I'll enjoy myself gardening, strolling the beach and picking fresh fruit for breakfast. That's the dream, anyhow. :)

Were most travelers traveling by choice or some did it as part of their jobs? Would travelling for job take the fun away from the nomadic way of travelling?

All travelers I know do so by choice. We all love traveling the world!

As for whether traveling for work can spoil the travels:

As a matter of fact, I'm about to publish my story, “how travel blogging ruined my travel life'. Seriously. It's true. I was traveling the world for 12 years before I started blogging. Before I started blogging, my travels were much more carefree. I was less stressed. I didn't have to sit and write all the time. I had a lot more time to travel I

didn't have to chose my destinations based on whether or not I had internet access. Quite Ironically, travel blogging actually restricts travel a lot!  That sucks.

As a result, this year I've made a lot of changes to my life so that I can begin to enjoy life and travels again, like I used to, as I mentioned above.

I see that your Caravan has not yet reached India. When do we see you here?

I was hoping to get there this year. Let's see. I've always wanted to visit India, of course, with all the vibrant colors, amazing culture and architecture and delicious food. But I sooo wish I could visit as  A MAN! I've talked with so many travelers and the experience male travelers and female travelers have to India is an entirely different thing!

I want to visit India as a guy ! I want to skip all the harassment and groping by local men. I want to skip having to wear long hot clothes to cover my entire body.

AS that's not possible, though, I will try to go with a male friend or at least another woman. 

Well, I would definitely like to change her opinion on India, it is not as unsafe as you think. Come over Lash, we will take good care of you

Zakopne : Ski & Beyond in The Hindu Sunday Magazine

A travel article by yours truly appeared in The Sunday Hindu Magazine dated Feb 24, 2013, sharing this with you.

To read complete article go here: http://www.thehindu.com/features/magazine/ski-and-beyond/article4438753.ece